In early September 2011, Xbox scene homebrew gurus Tiros and GliGli announced that there was finally a way to boot unsigned (homebrew) code on Xbox Phat & Slim models regardless of which kernel was installed ! (before now JTAG'ing a console for homebrew was limited to very old versions of console/kernel and thus made them very difficult and expensive to buy)
Naturally a whole range of third party devices have come onto the market which were basically copies of the DIY design that was released by Tiros and GliGli. As usual the whole scene looked to Team Xecuter to see what design they could come up with to make this the most rock solid mod possible and they have done it again with the Xecuter CoolRunner !
The possibilities for homebrew on the Xbox 360 are endless. There have been hundreds of extra features since JTAG'ing became possible - from your own custom dashboards to legally backing up all your games to a huge 1TB hard drive !
- Works with both Phat and Slim in one device
- Unique design - do not confuse with other brands that have copied the public schematics
- Optimized timing for each motherboard version
- Compatible with all Xbox kernel versions
- Easy programming via JTAG
- Power LED
- Reset Cycle LED
- Easy Install (7 Wires Slim, 6 Wires Phat)
- Powered by CK3 Lite, CK3 Pro or CK3i for JTAG Programming
- Works perfectly with the world famous Xecuter NAND-X
- Trusted Xecuter Design & Warranty
*Not available for the old Xenon motherboards.
DOUBLE SHIELDED CABLE / CPU_RST INFO:
This is the area that is most vital when looking for the best glitch times. The type of cable, the length of cable and the positioning of cable are all factors in the performance of the glitch. For the default install we have included a 50 Ohm low loss double shielded cable with a solid core for the CPU_RST. You have to make sure that you solder the shield of the cable to GND by stripping it back to expose the shield (CoolRunner side and solder to the GND at the AV port). There is no need to coil the cable or have it positioned anywhere in particular.
If you want a more detailed guide on how to cleanly prep your shielded cable then you should check out WNYConsoles guide - click here
Nice & Tidy......
You should be glitching within 1-3 Cycles (Green LED blinks for each cycle which is a 5 second pulse), so this equals 5-15 seconds. If your glitch times are higher than that then you should try the following alternative CPU_RST options.
Alt. Option #1: SLIM POST QSB + Double Shielded Cable. Using the included 50 Ohm Low Loss Double Shielded Cable. There is no need to cut it down, however if your results are not satisfactory cut it down and see if your performance improves. Users have posted that the 44cm point gives the best results on average. Test and log as before and go with whichever works best for you.
Thanks to WNYConsoles for his pics
Alt. Option #2: SLIM POST QSB + Blue Wire. Install the SLIM POST QSB and use an 8cm length of the blue wire. Then try the different length settings on the QSB to find the sweet spot.
Solder the Yellow wire (POST_1) to Pad #1 on the QSB. Then solder the 8CM Blue wire (CPU_RST) to Pad #50. This will give you 58 CM in length. Log your times then try Pad #47 (which will give you 55CM). Repeat all the way down to #29. Use whichever is your best time
Alt. Option #3: 50CM Blue Wire. Use the blue wire that is included with the CoolRunner Rev C. Success with this option requires you to wrap/coil the wire around the xclamp as per the pictures below (Thanks to n0syst3m for the technique & dgenx for the pic)
or like this (Thanks to BraveH43 for the pic)
You can also try putting the cable in a loop away from the xclamp like the picture below:
Now we know the Slims are more a pain in the ass than Phats, however if you follow our guides and go through the various tweaks and alternative setups, you will find the best possible glitch time for your system. Remember every system is different and no two ever work the same. We have been as detailed and as thorough as possible to give you the tools to get a great RGH on your system.
We've done 95% of the hard work for you - it's up to you to follow through with that last 5% of effort to achieve great results !
Out of the box there are 2 blank resistors (labelled 000) that act as a closed jumper connection (Points 1 & 2). It can be removed and tossed away and filled with solder.
It's there as closed in it's default state as we can't do an actual solder jumper on the production line.
JUMPER #1: C15 (Default Closed) - This jumper should be closed when performing a Slim install. You can also try it open - go with whichever works best for you.
JUMPER #2: 10 Ohm Resistor (Default 1-2) - This jumper should be 1-2 when performing a Slim install. You can also try it at 2-3 - go with whichever works best for you.
JUMPER #3: 100nF CAP (Default Open) - This jumper should be open when performing a Slim install. This jumper option is not applicable to Slim installs.
Here are some recommended posts by users who did their own troubleshooting and methods to improve glitch performance. Hopefully they may be of use to you